A Free Crochet Basket Bag To Make For Summer
Introduction
When I saw the Justine Basket Bag from Sézane, it was love at first sight. But, like any summer crush, there were a few complications: for one, it was well outside my budget for a seasonal bag, and for another, I wasn’t wild about the structure and the overall size. I loved the shape, but I wanted something with a little more slouch — less wicker picnic basket, more effortless summer bag.
I knew I could recreate something similar. After some sleuthing (and a little luck), I found a photo on Reddit showing the bottom of the original bag — someone else had been trying to reverse engineer it too. That image confirmed what I’d been imagining, and from there the puzzle pieces started to fall into place.
There were a couple of false starts (aren’t there always?), but I’m so pleased with how this turned out. The construction is simple and forgiving: a large circular base that grows through regular increases, giving the bag that beautifully flared shape — narrower at the base, wider at the top. I used a raffia yarn for mine, and I lined it with cotton duck layered over lightweight fusible webbing. This bag does need a lining with some interfacing to give it that lightly structured body.
Above all, trust your eye. Space your increases fairly evenly, and take time to fold the bag into its final shape as you go to check the silhouette. I wanted my sides wide — yours might be different, and that’s okay. Play with it. I also gave it a light steam block several times during the making process, just to ease any concerns I had about how the size and shape were evolving.
I used the measurements of the Justine Bag as a reference point for my bag, but yours can be bigger or smaller depending on your increase rate and personal preference.
I hope you enjoy this recipe for the Avelie Bag.
Please note: this is a guide, not a traditional pattern. It assumes you’ve crocheted before and feel comfortable making adjustments as you go.
Notes:
Gauge
Pre-blocking: approx. 3 stitches and 4 rows per inch
Post-blocking: 4 stitches and 3 rows per inch
Abbreviations
ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
sc – single crochet
blo – back loop only
sl st – slip stitch
Materials
- Raffia yarn (I used 2 balls of Ra Ra Raffia)
- Crochet hook size E / 3.5 mm
- Fabric for lining (I used cotton duck for its sturdiness)
- Lightweight fusible webbing
- Magnetic purse closures
- Needle and thread for hand-sewing the lining and snaps
- Handles
- Shoulder strap
Blocking
Raffia doesn’t behave like wool, so traditional wet blocking is a no-go. Instead, I steam blocked the bag several times before it was finished — and of course once it was done — to help it settle into shape. Hold a steamer or the steam function on your iron a few inches away, gently shape the bag with your hands, and let it dry completely. Don’t get it too wet — raffia can lose its body if it’s oversaturated. A little steam goes a long way.
The Base
Start with a magic ring and 12 half double crochets (hdc) worked into it. From there, continue in a flat circle in the back loop only, increasing each round in the classic “add one stitch between increases” rhythm:
- Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). 2 hdc in each stitch around, sl st in top of 1st hdc – 24 sts
- Round 3: Ch 1. 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st; repeat around, sl st in top of 1st hdc – 36 sts
- Round 4: Ch 1. 1 hdc in each of next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next; repeat around, sl st in top of 1st hdc – 48 sts
- Round 5: Ch 1. 1 hdc in each of next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next; repeat around, sl st in top of 1st hdc – 60 sts
- You get the idea. In each round, you’ll half double crochet in one more stitch than the prior round before working an increase, until you reach 126 stitches, which gave me about a 7″ diameter base.
Finish the base with one round of single crochet in the back loop only to create a subtle turning ridge — it gives the bag a bit more structure and helps the body stand up a bit straighter.
The Body
Fasten off the base, rejoin your yarn in any stitch, and start working the sides in hdc BLO.
I began each round with a ch 2, which I counted as the first hdc, and each round ended with a sl st into the top of that ch 2.
For the first six rounds, I increased (2 hdc in one stitch) every round to get that dramatic flare. I didn’t follow math — more like vibes — but the general idea was:
- Increase about 7–8 stitches per round, spaced fairly evenly. (If you’re into math, that’s roughly 1 increase every 18 stitches.)
Then I realized my bag might get too wide before it got tall enough, so I started easing up:
- Rounds 7–12: increases every other round spaced evenly throughout the round
- Rounds 13–21: increases every third round spaced evenly throughout the round
- Rounds 22–23: no increases — just cruise to the top
In the end, I had 168 stitches and 23 rounds after the ridge. My post-blocking gauge was 4 stitches and 3 rows per inch, and the finished bag measures about 20″ at the widest point, 9″ tall, and 7″ deep.
Pro tip: Your most important tools here are your eyes. Keep folding the bag into shape as you go. That’s how I decided when to slow down the increases and when to stop. You might need to increase more — or less — depending on your yarn and preferences.
A Word on Structure
As I said, I didn’t want a bag as rigid as the original. But unlined, this version was a little too floppy. I ended up lining it with cotton duck, with a layer of lightweight fusible webbing sandwiched in for structure.
I’m not a sewist, but bag linings are pretty forgiving. I traced the finished bag shape onto my fabric, (cut slightly larger to allow for seam allowance), fused the interfacing to the pieces with my iron, and, once the lining pieces were sewed together, I hand-sewed the top of the lining to the top of the bag — leaving the top two rounds of hdc exposed for handle placement. Is it perfect? Not even close. Will anyone notice? Absolutely not — no one’s out here inspecting the inside of my bag. It does exactly what it’s supposed to: holds all my stuff and looks good doing it.
Once the lining was in, I added magnetic purse closures so the bag can stay securely shut while I’m wearing it.
Handles
The original Justine Bag had two wrist-length handles and a pair of shoulder straps. I took a slightly simpler approach — I used two small handles that fit over my wrist, and added just one shoulder strap instead of two.
Because hdc is fairly open, I had no trouble sliding both styles of handle through the stitches.
Use This, Change This, Make It Yours
This is a “here’s what I did” kind of pattern — not a “you must follow this to the stitch” situation. Want a taller bag? Add rounds. Want less flare? Stop increasing earlier. Fold and test the shape as you go — it’s the best way to get the silhouette you love. Enjoy!
Stitch Definitions
ch – chain
Yarn over, pull through the loop on your hook. Used to start most crochet projects and create space between other stitches.
sl st – slip stitch
Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch and the loop on your hook. It’s a joining stitch with no height—great for connecting rounds or edging.
sc – single crochet
Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over again, pull through both loops. Creates a tight, dense stitch.
hdc – half double crochet
Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. It’s like the middle child between single and double crochet—gives a little height but still sturdy.
blo – back loop only
Work your stitch into the back loop of the stitch only (the loop furthest from you), rather than through both loops. This creates a subtle ridge and adds texture and flexibility to your fabric.