Rivven Tee – A Free Pattern

While this pattern works great with light summer yarns, it can also be beautifully made in wool or other fibers. If you’re looking for something special, check out the shop

This pattern is offered as a free resource, shared in the spirit of creativity and community. It has not been professionally tech edited or tested. While I don’t anticipate any issues,  if you spot one, please let me know so we can work together as a community to refine the pattern to its fullest potential, ensuring future knitters can benefit from this free resource. Please have grace.

At Pearl & Clover, I’m working one pattern at a time to build a thoughtfully crafted free library of contemporary designs. Each pattern is created with intention, focusing on simplicity, wearability, and a modern aesthetic.

PLEASE READ THROUGH ENTIRE PATTERN BEFORE SWATCHING AND CASTING ON

_{Pearlandcloveryarnco.com}     RIVVEN TEE    Pearl & Clover Yarn Co. 

A Quick Note Before You Begin:

As you knit, try on your project often to check the fit. This will help you assess whether adjustments are needed, especially for length, shaping, neckline width/depth or ease. Fitting as you go ensures a better final result and helps you achieve the fit you love.

Pattern Instructions:

Back

CO 114, (120, 126, 132, 138, 144, 150, 156, 162, 168, 174, 180) stitches using the long-tail cast-on. Work in SS for 7.5″, 7.75″, 8″, 8.25″, 8.5″, 8.75″, 9″, 9.25″, 9.5″, 9.75″, 10″, 10.25″ (19, 19.5, 20, 21, 21.5, 22 , 23, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25.5, 26 cm ) Place stitches on hold.

Optional Short Rows for a Higher Back Neck
If you prefer the back of your sweater to sit slightly higher at the neckline for a more comfortable fit, you can add a few short rows  a few inches in to the back knitting before working the full length of the back. This subtle shaping gently raises the back without dramatically changing the overall fit.

For a gentle lift, try the following short row sequence:

1. Knit to the last 4 stitches, work a German short row (GSR), then turn.
2. Purl to the last 4 stitches, work a GSR, then turn.
3. Knit to 4 stitches before the previous GSR, work a GSR, then turn.
4. Purl to 4 stitches before the previous GSR, work a GSR, then turn.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 once more if additional shaping is desired.
6. Resume working across all stitches, resolving the short rows as you go.

This creates a smooth and subtle lift at the back neck without affecting the rest of the shaping. Feel free to adjust the number of short rows to suit your preference!

Suggestion:

You may find it helpful to knit halfway to your instructed underarm depth, place stitches on hold, and continue casting on for the front right and left shoulders. Once the right and left shoulder are joined, continue knitting across the front only, periodically trying on the garment to ensure the armhole isn’t too deep. Adjust as needed before joining the front and back to knit in the round.

A Note About Shaping:

I’ve chosen to use only the M1L for shaping, as in my opinion, it creates the most seamless and invisible increase. The slight direction of the stitch lean is unnoticeable and doesn’t affect the garment’s overall look. However, if you prefer, you can integrate a M1R where you see fit.

Right Shoulder

With the right side facing, pick up 31 (33, 34, 36, 38, 40, 43, 45, 47, 48,) stitches along the cast-on edge of the back for the right shoulder. Work in SS for 2”.

Begin Right Neck Shaping:
Increase 1 stitch at the neck edge on every right-side row as follows:

RS Row: *Knit to one stitch before the end of the row, M1L, K1. Turn and purl back. Repeat from * until you have increased a total of 10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) stitches at the neck edge 41 (43, 44, 46, 48, 50, 55, 55, 57, 58) stitches for right shoulder. Place stitches on hold.

Left Shoulder

With the right side facing, pick up 31 (33, 34, 36, 38, 40, 43, 45, 47, 48,) stitches along the left side of the original cast-on edge.  Work in SS for 2”

Begin Left Neck Shaping:
Increase 1 stitch at the neck edge on every right-side row as follows: 

RS Row: *Knit to one stitch before the end of the row, M1L, K1. Turn and purl back. Repeat from * until you have increased a total of 10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) stitches at the neck edge 41 (43, 44, 46, 48, 50, 55, 55, 57, 58) stitches for right shoulder.. Place stitches on hold.

Join Front

RS: Place right shoulder stitches back on the needle. Knit across the right shoulder, then CO 16, (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20,) stitches using the backward loop cast-on. Continue knitting across the left shoulder stitches to the end of the row. 

Work in SS until the front measures 3”.

Join Front and Back

RS: Knit across the front, CO 8, (8, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 15) stitches using the backward loop cast-on for the left underarm. Knit across the back to the end of the row, then CO 8, (8, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14, 15) stitches using the backward loop cast-on for the right underarm. PM and join to knit in the round. Knit 1 round. 228, (240, 252, 264, 276, 288, 300, 312, 324, 336) stitches

Begin 2×1 Ribbing

Work in the round as follows:
K2, P1 around.
Repeat until the garment is 3” short of your desired length. (Sample garment was knit 10 inches from the underarm before splitting for the hem.)

Split Hem

Continue in pattern across the front half of the stitches 114, (120, 126, 132, 138, 144, 150, 156, 162, 168, 174, 180). Turn work and continue to work flat on these front stitches. (You can place the back stitches on hold if desired.) Knit in pattern for 3 inches. Bind off in your technique of choice.

Repeat for back stitches.

Neckline

Using 3.25 mm needles, pick up 93, (96, 99, 105, 105, 117, 117, 120, 129, 132) stitches around the neckline. Work K2, P1 ribbing for 4 rounds, or until you reach your desired neckline width. Bind off loosely.

Sleeves

If the sleeves are at your desired length, fold up ¼” with the wrong side facing and hem using a whip stitch or your preferred sewing method.

If the sleeves are too short and you want to add length, pick up stitches using 3.25 mm needles and continue knitting in the round until the desired length is reached. You can either hem them as described above after binding off or finish with a K2, P1 ribbing. If choosing ribbing,make sure your stitch count is divisible by 3.

If you enjoy this pattern, you might want to explore more projects and yarn options here and here.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR 

I’m the dyer behind Pearl & Clover Yarn Co., a lifelong maker, and the voice of Your Knitting Companion podcast. My fiber journey started in childhood when I taught myself to crochet, and in my 30s, I picked up knitting with the help of YouTube—once I started, I never stopped. I believe in knitting with intention, embracing creativity, and letting the process be just as rewarding as the finished piece.

When I’m not immersed in yarn, you’ll find me writing for the Pearl & Clover blog, dreaming up new patterns, or enjoying the company of animals—though I have a particular soft spot for dogs!

Pattern © 2024 Pearl & Clover Yarn Co.. All rights reserved. FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY. V2015.07.20